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The week in Chamonix began by getting caught in a storm, and ended the same way.  The first one expected, the second one less so, but sandwiched in the middle was a couple of peaks that will make the week a memorable one.

Some obscure routes and some classics: El Niño, Madame Rêve, Digital Crack and République Bananière. Read more

Back in March, just before the AGM I wrote about the motion of no confidence raised against the British Mountaineering Council (BMC).  Of course, the motion was defeated, but the BMC was, and is, under a period of potential reform. Read more

In the last year the BMC has faced a torrid time; the Climb Britain u-turn, and now a potential 40% Sport England funding cut, a proposed Alpine Club Special General Meeting and a guerilla ‘vote of no confidence’. Is this a storm in a teacup, is the board “betraying” the members, or are these all just red herrings? Read more

There was a list of four routes on Heather’s fridge (the fridge list). Three weren’t in condition after the recent storms in Chamonix, so that left one: Etat du Choc on the Petit Clocher du Portalet. My french brain didn’t seem to be on form after a long week of work and I’d forgotten that this route translates as State of Shock, and not some sweeter alternative. That said the line, after a good few hours of upward fighting up a 9 pitch off-width was definitely worthy of being on the fridge list, and the north face of the Portalet is quite possibly the best face of granite in region. Read more