Fresh from another astounding flash ascent of the End of the Affair on Friday I went with a very on form Jordan Buys to Burbage North for him to try and flash The Promise. It’s been 3 years nearly since I climbed the route and putting a top rope on I’d forgotten how technically difficult …
In climbing folklore the 1989 Stanage guide is the real guide to Stanage. Proper grades, proper stars, proper descriptions, proper difficult finding the routes. Rumours of the VS challenge came from my old university housemate who had allegedly climbed it way back when, possibly before 1989 as far as the rumour knew. The VS challenge …
There’s definitely something in the saying; there’s bold climbers and old climbers but not old bold climbers. A number of recent events, like Franco Cookson decking from 20m, and finding this Malham video, got me thinking quite a lot about how my climbing’s changed over the last 15 years and how the UK (or perhaps UKC) perceives …
I’m looking through a door in the basement of an Iranian hotel where I’m lying, with 4 other men, in a radon bath heated by the geothermal springs of Mt Damavand. Stood in the doorway is an overweight Iranian taxi driver in white baggy white Y fronts with a big rubber tube in his hand. …
“Unlike the Bonatti pillar, the Walker or even the Freney, it seems improbable that the North Face of Les Droites will ever be downgraded, or become popular and lose its character. It will always remain remote and untamed.” Gaston Rebuffat. If Rebuffat turned ever so slightly in his grave upon Ueli Steck summiting in about …