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Whose ethic is it anyway? A climber’s history of Millstone

It's pretty clear that over the last 10+ years the ethic at Millstone has been to try and move further away from fixed gear. I can imagine a new peg being placed on a significant new line at Millstone, but it won't be without controversy and I wouldn't place a bet on it happening ...

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The Promise, is it finally the End of the Affair?

Fresh from another astounding flash ascent of the End of the Affair on Friday I went with a very on form Jordan Buys to Burbage North for him to try and flash The Promise. It’s been 3 years nearly since I climbed the route and putting a top rope on I’d forgotten how technically difficult …

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The VS challenge

In climbing folklore the 1989 Stanage guide is the real guide to Stanage. Proper grades, proper stars, proper descriptions, proper difficult finding the routes. Rumours of the VS challenge came from my old university housemate who had allegedly climbed it way back when, possibly before 1989 as far as the rumour knew. The VS challenge …

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